Wild Sockeye and a Recipe for Gravlox

*This article appeared in print a couple weeks ago for the Citizen Times. I have been fortunate enough to dine on Heidi and Steve's wild caught sockeye for a few years now, and relish the opportunity to write about it. Check out the recipe for homemade gravlox following the story.* 

For most people, summertime is filled with relaxing beach vacations and sips of lemonade in the shade. But for Heidi Dunlap and Steve Maher of Asheville’s Wild Salmon Co., it’s the busiest time of year, when millions of wild sockeye salmon return to Bristol Bay, Alaska, to spawn.

Bristol Bay has been a biologist-monitored fishery since 1940. There, a fixed number of fishing licenses are allotted to secure the health of future salmon populations and prevent over-fishing.

Dunlap began fishing there at age 6, receiving one of the limited licenses as a gift from her fisherman father at 16. She’s been traveling from her home in Asheville to fish Bristol Bay waters ever since. She and her partner Steve have not missed a season in 19 years.

Though it would be tempting to fantasize about life as a professional fisher, this career is nothing short of burly. The hours are long, and conditions are often dangerous and far from glamorous.

Catching the fish is not the end of the journey either. Preserving the catch is a tedious, time-sensitive task.

Despite this, I have never run across such beautifully packaged sockeye — deep red fillets nestled in pairs, expertly sealed and ready for the table. Taking well to marinades or applewood smoke, or unseasoned on its own, each bite of their wild sockeye is sheer pleasure.

My Uncle John, a geologist and global climate-change expert (and also an avid fly fisherman), has spent generous time all over the world catching and eating fresh fish. We served sockeye from The Wild Salmon Co. during his stay and received his educated approval.

In contrast, farm-raised salmon, with its artificially colored flesh and unnatural marbling, is a decoy for the gastronomic experience salmon was intended to be. Wild salmon has the benefit of tasting wild: firm fleshed from a life lived with vigor, deeply hued and kissed by the cold, briny water it was pulled from.

Salmon aquaculture pales greatly in comparison, while putting wild populations at risk, introducing disease and chemicals to fragile ecosystems.Whether it’s eating responsibly or simply a matter of taste, Heidi and Steve keep their clientele from choosing between the two. With their help, those on dry land receive the opportunity to partake in a tradition as old as time, and to fully understand why it’s worth going wild.

HEIDI'S GRAVLAX

1 lb. center-cut sockeye fillet.
1 1/2 tablespoon sea salt
1 heaping tablespoon sugar
Fresh-ground pepper
1 tablespoon of dry gin or tequila (optional)
Fresh dill sprigs

Place thawed salmon fillet, flesh side up, in the center of a large piece of plastic wrap. Mix salt, sugar, black pepper and tequila together a small bowl. Rub evenly into salmon. Top with dill.

Wrap the salmon tightly in the plastic wrap. Wrap filet again with a second sheet of plastic wrap.

Place wrapped and seasoned fillet on a plate, then place another plate on top and weight with two cans. Place in refrigerator. Flip every 12 hours and cure for 2-3 days.

Remove fillet from wrapping, discard dill and rinse entire fillet. Pat dry with paper towels.

Slice the gravlax thinly with very sharp knife with the grain of the belly. Serve with crostini (toasted french bread), cream cheese and fresh dill.

Leg of Lamb with Apricots and Rosemary

Just now getting around to posting this, which would have been a clever idea pre-holidays, but it was a whirlwind this year with the blessing of visiting family while also recovering from a nasty bout of bronchitis.
The good news is, leg of lamb is actually super simple, makes excellent leftovers, and can stand in on any weekend or weeknight as a memorable meal. The following article accompanied this recipe specially written for the Asheville Citizen Times. They have been generous to publish my ramblings on food and the memories which ultimately tag along for the ride.
May your new year be filled with such moments, gathered around your table with pleasant fare before you, and most importantly, with peace and contentment in your hearts! Happy New Year!

Beef: It’s what’s for dinner. Sound familiar? More importantly, taste familiar?

While I rank a grass-fed burger among some of the better pleasures in life, I adore lamb. Not only has lamb dodged a government-funded slogan, demanding attention without a campaign, it takes mealtime to greater heights without any more effort than ordinary chicken or beef.

Although many cultures enjoy lamb on a daily basis, skewered and rubbed with spices or roasted in earthen ovens and served as street food, it remains on the fringe of public discovery here in the United States — though it sometimes makes an appearance during holidays and special occasions.

It’s partially a matter of geography: Countries with less land devoted to large-scale cattle ranching benefit from lamb’s lighter agricultural footprint. But here in the U.S., beef is king.

Regardless, meatloaf is strictly of the lamb variety at our house, as is stew. Until I became acquainted with East Fork Farm and its beautifully raised lamb, that wasn’t always the case. Since visiting the farm and acquiring a taste for the earthy, fragrant meat, lamb has become a staple in my kitchen.

My grandfather, Dr. Cort, a prestigious yet down-to-earth man who never wasted words, maintained a few strict traditions. In his Florida home, where he graciously hosted our family’s holiday gatherings, bloody Marys were mixed with militant execution, by him and only him, to our numerous (and thirsty) crowd. Grapefruit halves were served each morning, carefully sectioned and drizzled with honey.

And Christmas supper was always leg of lamb with mint jelly.

In the naivety of my youth, I often refused my serving of lamb, too intimidated by the unfamiliarity of the dish. As an adult, I look back on those Christmas dinners with a new appreciation.

My grandfather was not only providing his family with nourishment, but between the tender bites of roasted lamb, he was creating an invisible yoke around each of us, tethering our lives together in the name of tradition.His leg of lamb was a symbol of the legacy he left behind.

Although my extended family has not gathered the way we once did when he was still alive, of all the gifts I’ve received over the years, I remember none of them better than his.

Here’s my adaptation of the classic leg of lamb, updated with apricots and fresh herbs.

Roasted leg of lamb with apricots and rosemary
1 leg of lamb or lamb shoulder
kosher salt
black pepper
2-3 tablespoons fresh rosemary, chopped
1 onion, cut in half and sliced lengthwise
1 cup dried apricots
3/4 cup water or dry red wine
Preheat oven to 450. Line a 9-inch by 13-inch baking dish with parchment.
Rinse lamb, and pat dry with paper towels. Place in baking dish. Season on all sides with salt and black pepper. Rub with rosemary. Add onion and apricots to baking dish, surrounding the lamb. Add water or wine. Bake for 15 minutes then reduce heat to 350. Roast until a meat thermometer reads approximately 140 degrees, about 1 1/2 hours. (Roasting times will vary depending on the thickness of the lamb.)
Transfer to a serving platter. Allow to rest for 15 minutes before carving. Spoon apricots and onions over lamb, and serve.

Sweet Potato Bisque with Parmesan Lace

Simplistic yes, but with all the holiday fuss, uncomplicated dishes are a welcome retreat. Homemade broth, sweet potato and cream need nothing more than one another, except for a special adornment of baked parmesan cheese. Special. Satisfying. 

Sweet Potato Bisque with Parmesan Lace:

*8 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1 inch cubes

*4-5 cups chicken broth

*1 cup high quality cream

*sea salt 

*black pepper

*3/4 cup grated parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 400. Line a baking sheet with parchment.

Heap 1 Tablespoon of parmesan on baking sheet and spread out to create a flat circle. Repeat with remaining cheese allowing an inch between each circle. Bake for about 4 minutes or until cheese is mostly golden and bubbly. Remove from oven and cool.

Place sweet potatoes in a large soup pot. Cover with chicken broth adding enough to completely submerge contents. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer. Cover and cook until sweet potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Remove from heat. Cool slightly.

Blend with an immersion blender or working in batches, puree contents in a food processor until smooth. Add cream. Blend. Season with sea salt and pepper.

Divide into bowls. Garnish each with a wafer of parmesan lace. Serve hot.

Mulled Apple Cider

Appearing in print last week, this article on mulled cider includes a special recipe for homemade mulling spice (perfect for cider and wine). An inexpensive but inventive gift for those you plan to gift. I've done this every year for the past few, with great success. It's always nice to have cider and mulling spice on hand for those impromptu Holiday gatherings. Cheers.

Homemade Mulling Spice:

5 navel oranges, very thinly sliced into whole rounds

10-15 whole cinnamon sticks

20 cardamom pods

40 whole cloves

30 black peppercorns

20-25 star anise pods

Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Arrange orange slices on wire racks. Place racks over sheet pans. Allow oranges to gently bake until fully dehydrated, flipping once halfway through, about 3-4 hours.  

Allow oranges to cool completely on wire racks before dividing with remaining spices among 10 paper envelopes*. Secure with twine. 

Each packet should adequately flavor approximately one quart fresh apple cider or one bottle of red wine.

*Create paper pouches using pre-made envelopes or make your own with origami paper or parchment. Tie with kitchen twine.

Mulled Apple Cider:

1 packet homemade mulling spice (see recipe)

1 quart local apple cider

Place cider in a saucepan over medium-low heat or in a crockpot on middle setting. Add mulling spices. Allow to gently simmer for a few minutes. Remove from heat and steep for 10-20 minutes before serving. 

*Experiment with a variety of spices such as whole allspice berries, spicebush berries, candied ginger, or grated nutmeg.

Thank You!

As a fleet of pumpkin pies cool,  

it seems a perfect moment

to express my gratefulness

for another year of good eating,

and for your interest in such affairs. 

May you have a blessed Thanksgiving, 

whether you plan to feast with a crowd

or have simpler arrangements. 

May we recognize the gift of a meal, 

however humble, 

and take time to celebrate 

all we are thankful for. 

May your list be a lengthly one.

A Recipe For Thanksgiving: Maple Bourbon Glazed Turkey with Local Bacon and Dried Cherry Stuffing

This recipe was a special creation for The Asheville Citizen Times which appeared in print last week alongside my article on giving thanks for locally raised turkeys. For those of you still deciding on how to roast your Thanksgiving bird, consider the following. The maple bourbon glaze candied the turkey's skin, creating a crunchy, sweet crust, outside perfectly juicy meat. A tart bite from cherries with salty local bacon made for a perfect stuffing to dress it with. This recipe may become a new tradition at our place. Thank you to The Asheville Citizen Times and to East Fork Farm for inspiring this year's holiday table. And a heartfelt thanks to you for reading!

Maple Bourbon Glazed East Fork Farm Turkey with Local Bacon and Dried Cherry  Stuffing:

Local Bacon and Dried Cherry Stuffing:

*1lb Hickory Nut Gap Farm Bacon

*2/3 cup dried cherries

*1 large loaf sourdough or traditional French bread (about 1lb)

*1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

*1 garlic glove, minced

*sea salt 

*black pepper

*5 tablespoons butter

*1 medium onion, finely chopped

*2 large celery stalks, finely chopped

*1 small green bell pepper, finely chopped

*1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

*1 1/2 cups hot chicken broth

*1/2 cup chopped pecans (optional)

Preheat oven to 350. 

Line a baking sheet with parchment. Arrange bacon on baking sheet and bake until crispy, about 10-15 minutes. Transfer to paper towels and set aside.

Place cherries in a bowl and cover with boiling water for 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Remove crust from bottom and ends of bread loaf and discard. Cut bread into 1 inch cubes and place in a large mixing bowl. Add garlic and olive oil. Toss. 

Spread out on a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle with sea salt and black pepper. Bake until slightly crunchy, stirring often, about 20 minutes. 

Remove from oven and return to the same mixing bowl.

Place a cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add butter. Saute onion, celery and green pepper until soft, about 8 minutes. Add to bread mixture. Stir in chopped bacon, cherries, broth, parsley and pecans. 

Set aside for stuffing the turkey. 

Maple Bourbon Glazed East Fork Farm Turkey:

*1 local pastured turkey, rinsed, giblets removed, and patted dry

*local bacon and dried cherry stuffing (see recipe)

*4 tablespoons butter

*2 cups chicken broth

*sea salt

*black pepper

*1 1/2 cups maple syrup

*1/2 cup bourbon

Preheat oven to 425. 

Place turkey in a large roasting pan fitted with a rack. Stuff chest cavity with local bacon and dried cherry stuffing. Tie drumsticks together with kitchen twine.

Pat turkey dry with paper towels. Smear with butter and liberally season with sea salt and black pepper. Add broth to bottom of roasting pan.

Place turkey on bottom rack of oven and roast for 30 minutes before reducing heat to 350. Roast for 45 minutes. Baste with pan liquid and loosely cover turkey with foil. Baste after 35 minutes, adding more liquid to pan if needed. 

Bring maple syrup and bourbon to a gentle boil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Reduce heat and simmer until liquid is reduced to about 1 cup. Set aside. 

Begin brushing turkey with glaze every 30 minutes within the last hour and a half of roasting. You should brush with glaze at least 3 times before turkey is done. Reheat glaze as needed if it becomes too thick.

Once a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 165 degrees, remove from oven. Stuffing must also reach 165 degrees. Brush turkey one final time with glaze, reserving at least 1 tablespoon for gravy.

Allow turkey to rest for at least 10 minutes before transferring to a platter. Let it rest for an additional 35 minutes before carving. 

Meanwhile, make gravy from drippings

Maple Bourbon Gravy:

Transfer turkey drippings to a saucepan, adding 2 1/2 cups stock (made from giblets) and about 1 tablespoon remaining glaze. Bring to a simmer. Add 1/4 cup flour to 1/2 cup cool water in a small mixing bowl and whisk with a fork until completely dissolved. Slowly whisk flour mixture into drippings and simmer until thickened. Pour through a strainer into a serving vessel and serve immediately. 

Gather, give thanks, and enjoy!

A Simple Method for Extracting Pomegranate Seeds

Fruit takes on a special appeal this time of year. Abundant throughout the growing season, cooler weather now limits us to only a handful of seasonal options. Pomegranates, with their little seeds surrounded by sweet, jewel-like fruit happens to be a personal favorite, arriving on the scene just in time to appear on the holiday table. Though the task of plucking each ruby seed from a web of fine, papery skin puts a damper on the fun. This tutorial from the Gourmet test kitchen (while it still existed) is a total game changer. I have been using this method for extracting pomegranate seeds with 100% success. The discovery was so exciting, I thought I would share it here. Enjoy!