This article appeared recently in the Asheville Citizen Times:
Written by
Teosinte (Euchlaena mexicana), the original wild grass cultivated into what we recognize today as corn, found its way into modern agriculture more than 7,000 years ago. Over thousands of years, Native Americans transformed this miniature version of maize through careful cultivation into today’s most prolific grain.
Comparative high yields to other grasses helped corn become a staple to native people, representing security during winter months. Suitable for storage and various applications, left whole or ground into cornmeal, corn has been, and remains, a central element to our nation’s history.
Its appeal comes as no surprise. As each row of tightly gathered kernels must be persuaded to forfeit its sweet juices with enough pressure to produce the perfect crunch, this sensation has become a mascot of summertime celebration. Then there is the matter of grits, rich with butter and cheddar and a turn of fresh cracked pepper, or skillet cornbread infused with wild honey and sage. A long history with this seductive grain seems inevitable.
Today, corn varieties differ from one to the next as greatly as mealy grocery store tomatoes compare to their heirloom cousins. Almost no comparison exists between varieties grown simply for quantity and those grown for quality.
As agriculture has gone from the hands of the individual to the hands of only a few individuals, mainstream corn varieties have been greatly reduced, pushing many into extinction. Most corn today is grown in massive quantity, ending up as corn syrup, corn oil, processed into ethanol, or used as silage for livestock.
These varieties are owned and seeded by large corporations with specific purpose, leaving scant room for genetic diversity, while lacking the protein and micro-nutrient content of their ancestors. Yet in the wake of this pattern, small producers are successfully breeding old cultivars. The renaissance of heirloom corn cultivation ensures the future for endangered varieties while giving diners the gustatory satisfaction our grandparents used to know.
Last season, I grew a plot of Painted Mountain Corn (bred for its cold hardiness and drought resistance). Peeling away its ordinary looking husk revealed a rainbow of fantastic, striated color. Originally bred by the process of open pollination from seeds gathered from Native Americans and homesteaders from more than 70 varieties of native corn, this harvest was among my most memorable. Butcher’s Blood, another variety gaining notice, also captivates with alluring hues and nutritional excellence. These varieties are not intended for classic picnic-cob eating, but can be milled into nutritious flours or coarse-ground as a flavorful base for cornbread or polenta.
As far as sweet hybrid varieties go, Silver Queen is a personal favorite. Introduced to this white kernel variety while working on a farm during my teens, I recall a swarm of Silver Queen devotees piling ears into canvas sacks in such a frenzy, we had to stash a few crates in the back of the market truck to keep latecomers from uncontrollable grief. So sweet and tender, it could be eaten directly from the field.With the help of seed savers, heritage growers and motivated breeders, corn varieties of the frontier are making a steady comeback. Since the genetics of native corn also carry the advantage of greater natural pest resistance than commercial varieties, small-scale producers gain extra incentive to try heritage seeds.
Whether the crop ends up decorating an autumn entryway, or becomes a highlight for the Thanksgiving table, genetic diversity for corn’s future is in the hands of backyard gardeners. Grow a few rows and save the seed from your most successful ears. The rest is a matter of history.
Savory corn pudding
A devotee of slow cooked grits and skillet cornbread, savory corn pudding has become a family favorite. Sweet and creamy, with a herbaceous nod from fresh sage, this application bumps corn from side dish to main course.
4-5 cups sweet corn kernels, freshly cut from the cob
2 cups whole milk
6 tablespoons high-quality unsalted butter, melted
1/3 cup local honey
3 fresh large eggs
3 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon sea salt
Black pepper to taste
1-2 tablespoon fresh chopped sage
1 sweet onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups whole milk
6 tablespoons high-quality unsalted butter, melted
1/3 cup local honey
3 fresh large eggs
3 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon sea salt
Black pepper to taste
1-2 tablespoon fresh chopped sage
1 sweet onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Place corn in dish. Set aside.
Whisk remaining ingredients in a medium mixing bowl. Pour over corn. Bake until top is golden, about 35-40 minutes. Serve warm.
Sounds delicious! My neighbor gave us some silver queen he grew- it was fantastic.
ReplyDeleteThere is some really stellar wordage up in this article:
ReplyDelete"As each row of tightly gathered kernels must be persuaded to forfeit its sweet juices with enough pressure to produce the perfect crunch, this sensation has become a mascot of summertime celebration..." for one. Another favorite is:
"...we had to stash a few crates in the back of the market truck to keep latecomers from uncontrollable grief."
For the record, you are a damn good food writer.
Also, I'll set out a book I have about Rituals of Corn. I got it in Mexico, and it is gorgeous. I'll try to bring it by tomorrow.